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Larsen

Autumn / Winter

Lookbook

Five looks assembled from twelve pieces, which is roughly the arithmetic of the whole collection. Everything shown is in stock or explicitly is not — this is a catalogue with the styling left in, rather than a mood board with a shopping list attached.

The collection
Sonder Longline Coat, worn.
Norrland Linen Shirt.

Nothing tucked

Shot at eight, before anyone had swept the studio

The Sonder is unlined and bound at every seam, which means it hangs from the shoulder rather than from a canvas, and it moves like a dressing gown that happens to be a coat. Worn open over linen it does what a heavy coat cannot: it stays on indoors. Nothing here is tucked, and the trouser is a size up from what the model usually takes.

Halden Wool Overcoat, worn.
Mistral Merino Cardigan.

The one you leave by the door

Camel, and the only piece we have restocked twice

A wool-cashmere overcoat cut with enough room for a five-gauge knit underneath — the measurement that matters is not the chest but the armhole, and this one is deep. Over a cardigan and denim it reads as deliberate rather than as an office coat gone off duty. Buttoned it is formal; open it is not, and that is the entire range this piece is asked to cover.

Stille Chunky Knit, worn.
Orkney Cable Knit.

Weight, in two gauges

Five-gauge over a cable, which is more knit than most people expect to like

Two knits at once is a proportion problem before it is a warmth one. The Stille is cropped at the hip and the Orkney is not, so the layer underneath shows exactly the two inches it should. Both are Hawick lambswool from the same frames, which is why the colours sit together without matching — the yarn is the same, the gauge is not.

Linden Relaxed Blazer, worn.
Atlas Indigo Shirt.

Half-lined, for the month either side

Late September, and again in April

The Linden lost its sleeve lining after a month of being worn around the studio by someone who kept taking it off. Half-lined it weighs about 240 grams less and it creases along the elbow within a day, which is either the point of linen or the reason to buy something else. Over indigo chambray it is the closest thing here to a suit.

Noor Structured Tote, worn.
Linnea Wool Scarf.

What gets carried

Both made from what the mills had left

The tote is full-grain and vegetable-tanned, so it arrives pale and stiff and is a different object by the second winter. The Linnea is woven from the wool left on the roll after the Orkney run, which is why it appears without notice and disappears the same way. Accessories here are not a category — they are what the offcut allowed.

A lookbook is only useful if everything in it is still for sale.

Notes from the workroom

Four things we say often enough at fittings that they may as well be written down. None of them are rules — they are what the patterns were drafted to do.

Buy the coat a size up, the shirt a size down
Outerwear is cut to go over a knit and looks wrong pulled tight. Linen relaxes about half a size in six washes, so a shirt that feels correct in the first week will be loose by the second month.
Two knits work when the gauges differ
Same weight over same weight reads as a mistake. A five-gauge over a cable, or a cable under a coat, reads as a decision. The rule is the gauge, never the colour.
Let the trouser break once
The Vega is drafted to sit on the shoe with a single fold and nothing more. Anything longer and the pleat stops doing its work; anything shorter and the wide leg looks borrowed.
Undo the cuff before you roll it
A rolled linen sleeve creases permanently in the same place. Two turns from an open cuff, not four from a fastened one, is the difference between a fold and a scar.

From the same afternoon

Two frames that did not belong to a look. The rail is everything that made the cut for this drop, photographed before it was split up.

  • 5Looks in this book
  • 12Pieces in the collection
  • 3Mills behind them
  • 2Drops a year

Everything shown

12
See all